thinking jewish

A Night in Detroit

5:23 PM: Arrive at gate B15, coffee and paper in hand, for my 7:10 flight.

5:49 PM: Flight is overbooked by two seats.

5:51 PM: I volunteer to be bumped from the flight, in exchange for a $250 voucher.

5:53 PM: There are no open flights to New York tonight, either direct or connecting, nor Washington, Philadelphia, or Boston, on any airline. Agent tries to get permission from his supervisor to send me to San Diego for the day. Unsuccessful. Notes "this is like trying to bring out water from a rock." Nice reference to Numbers 20.

5:54 PM: Earliest arrival into New York will be at 12:30 PM, the next day, flying (backwards) through Chicago. They'll throw in the hotel room.

6:30 PM: I take the offer. Mad dash to pull my bag from the airplane ensues. Flight is delayed a half hour. I sit back comfortably and wait for my vouchers.

7:23 PM: Hotel shuttle pulls up. My new best friend is Arnold, the other man bumped from the flight.

7:38 PM: Westin is actually a Best Western. Damn. Hotel alttrium is circa 1972, with waterfall, neon lights and tanning room.

7:45 PM: Room 2025. View of the parking lot. King sized bed. TV. Soap. I think I saw this once in a Dateline special.

8:04 PM: In need of supplies, I go for a walk. Gift shop is closed. I go down the street to the Embassy Suites. Serious hotel envy ensues.

8:30 PM: Family Guy!

9:00 PM: Desperate Housewives. I too am very desperate.

10:12 PM: Onslaught of text messages. Why me? Why now?

10:14 PM: "Sleep".

12:30 AM: Awake.

1:09 AM: Really awake. TV time.

2:46 AM: Grey hair succesfully plucked.

3:42 AM: Shower. Pack. Go.

4:56 AM: How do lines exist at this time of day?

5:02 AM: Seat opens up on 6:15 AM flight direct to La Guardia. Celebration followed by trip to Starbucks.

5:03 AM: Yum.

5:08 AM: Only person at my gate, B14. Remember the good old days, B15? How I miss thee.

5:45 AM: Plane. Pilot. Flight attendant. Still no sun. Is this really happening?

6:15 AM: Goodbye Detroit!

Camels and Good Wine

After a week of travels in two of the most 100% different places on Earth, I'm back in Jerusalem, ready for Passover to begin tomorrow night. The Negev and Italy were both great trips each, though very different.

Pictures from the Negev are posted on your right. We did a lot of hiking, some sleeping outside, some more hiking, and then had Shabbat at Kibbutz Yahel. Good times. We also did a lot of peeing outside.

Italy, for its part, was a crazy whirlwind 3-day tour of Florence and Rome. We saw just about every important site and piece of art you can think of, and even managed to squeeze in two of the most perfect meals ever into our time there. Not to mention that we were in Rome when the new afifior (Pope) was elected. Fun times.

Pictures are coming soon, as soon as I get all of the rest from Josh.

Until then, חג פסח סמח וקשר!

Sto Guidando un Cammello nel Sud

As if I haven't been in Jerusalem long enough since the Ride for Reform, I'm leaving in a few short hours on two new trips, back to back.

This morning I'm heading down south with my class to spend four days in the Negev. We'll be hiking, relaxing, seeing important stuff and maybe even riding a camel. We'll be at Kibbutz Yahel for Shabbat (Yahel is one of two kibbutzim aligned with the Progressive movement here). Motsei Shabbat, we're coming immediately back to Jerusalem. We should arrive here around midnight.

At 1 AM, Josh, Sara, Sadie and I leave for Ben Gurion Airport to catch our early-as-hell flight to Italy. Yes, as is apparent from the title of this blog I'm off to Italy, to partake in the sensational tastes of Il Latini, the breathtaking sights of the Uffizi, and to help the Cardinals choose a new pope of course. I'll return from our four-day non-stop tour of Florence and Rome Wednesday morning.

In the meantime, lest you go bored without something to read during my renewed absence, I have a game. First one who can translate the title of this post wins a prize.

Ready. Set. Go!

Hiking for Reform

One week and 220 kilometers later, I have made it back and successfully finished the Ride for Reform. I think I can honestly say that this was the hardest thing I have ever done in my life, even harder than my sea-to-sea hike.

There were roughly 26 riders, half Israeli, half American, who set out on this journey from Kibbutz Yahel in the south, through Mitzpe Ramon towards Ashkelon on the coast, and then northeast to Jerusalem. I think that every single one of them were in better shape than me. Nonetheless, I made it to the end and, after two days of recovery, am back up on my feet.

The experience was amazing. The desert was beautiful and not hot, the coast green as ever and extremely pleasant. There were a few very hard and long climbs, and many fun off-road drops.

I only fell and got hurt once, while walking my bike up a hill.

All in all, I'm very proud to have been able to take part in such an event to support Progressive Judaism in Israel, even if I still lack feeling in some of my fingers and parts of my legs. The last day saw the only time that I fully walked my bike up a long hill. But it was a nice hike, worth every step.

The ride raised a total of $75,000 for the movement. This on the heels of the recent Supreme Court decision giving near-legitimacy to non-Orthodox rabbis in Israel for the first time - it's been a few good weeks for Progressive Judaism in Israel!

Pictures are coming shortly - keep checking back!

When the Situation's Shit, Evacuate Yourself

I bought I t-shirt last night with a picture of a guy crouched, looking like he's about to take a crap. The above title is written below him. Only in Tel Aviv...

On Friday I left my hilly abode for the coastal plain. It was a well-needed reprieve from life in Jerusalem. Every time I go to Tel Aviv I decide that I like it more and more. Sure, it has it's gross parts. But doesn't every city? Sure it's so hot and humid in the summer that you just want to die. But right now it's the Spring, and the weather there is perfect.

Friday night, we found our way to the north of the city to Beti Daniel, Tel Aviv's one and only progressive synagogue. It was an interesting experience, to say the least. The community is definitely very organically Israeli, which gave me more appreciation for what they do than I could ever expect - this is no American implant like, er, Kol Haneshama. The way they prayed and ran things was interesting to say the least, but nonetheless uniquely Israeli in its style.

I was actually surprised by how much of Tel Aviv was closed on Shabbat. Given, it is somewhat illegal for people to be employed in most stores on Shabbat without special permits, but even the heart of "Secular Israel" was largely quiet and resting Friday night, and especially Saturday.

Saturday, families were out together at the beach, and walking along the cities boulevards. They biked together, walked together, and yelled together. A good example of a non-Halakhic Shabbat.

And of course, no trip to Tel Aviv could be complete without last night's festivities. First, after Shabbat we took a trip to The Coffee Bean, Southern California's favorite coffee and tea eatery. They have a few locations here in Israel. Their chai late is not to be missed.

After divulging in the wholesome goodness that is The Coffee Bean, we went to a rally being held in support of the disengagement plan. There I bought the above-mentioned shirt. When the situation is shit (like it is in Gaza), Evacuate Yourself (get out).

The rally started with a march from Kikar Rabin to Kikar Dizengoff. At Dizengoff there were roughly 10-15,000 people, mostly young Israelis from many of the youth movements. They had banners and balloons and shirts and songs - all the fun stuff we don't use enough in the states. Plenty of speakers spoke (in Hebrew of course) and then Hatikva was played.

Something about that song, being played at a truly Israeli event, always sends shivers through my body...

After Much Anticipation - My Hike

It's certainly been a hard week and a half for all those of you who have been dying to learn about my trek from sea to sea. First, an introduction.

It was INCREDIBLE. The most amazing thing I have done in years. It was harder than I ever could have imagined, and painful at times (though worse for others than me. More on that later). There were times it was frustrating, and when I just wanted to give up. But, in the end, reaching the Mediterranean Sea was one of the best birthday presents I've ever received.

We followed כביש ישראל, Israel's national trail, which goes from the north of the country to the south. The path was anything but direct, but afforded us good terrain and many sites to see along the way.

The whole trek, we brought along Eddie (our Etrog). He had an excellent time.

Day 1: Thursday

Thursday was סוכות (a whole separate post is in order). After the end of the holiday, my friends Seth, Emma and Rachel gathered at my apartment. We went and enjoyed our last meal on Ben Yehuda St. - falafel and shwarma. Mmmm.

At 9 PM we were picked up by our sherut driver to leave for Tiberias. After a short discussion of which route to take, we were off. This was the first of four times on our trip when we almost died. We were promised by our driver, and received, a shlep all the way to the north of the country in two hours and 15 minutes. The drive should take closer to three. I have never been more nervous in a car in my life; not even when my mom is driving.

We left the sherut at Kibbutz Degania, and met our sixth man, Dan, at the junction there. After a short walk, we found the start of the trail and a nice field on which to sleep.

Day 2: Friday

As the sun rose Friday morning, we began to awaken slowly, when, suddenly we heard, "It's 5:35 - we're late!" Seth was yelling. Within an hour we had packed up, found water, and were off.

The terrain Friday was tough. Basically, it was a steep ascent out of the Kineret valley. We had 10 hours to hike in the hot summer heat, during which there would be no new water supplies. We each were carrying at least 4 liters of water, so we figured we'd be fine... that was until, one hour later, two of the female members had already finished their water. More on that later.

Highlights, pre-running out of water at 2 PM:

• Shortly into the trail we passed a Beduin shepherd and his flock.
• Around 11, we lost the trail, then realized where we were, and had to ascend straight up an unmarked part of the mountain to reach where we were supposed to be. Literally, straight up.
• About half-way up, the sole of one of Anna's hiking boots melted off. לא טוב.
• At the top, Anna got in a fight with a barbed-wire fence. Anna lost.
• A nice caravan of Israeli Jeep riders stopped and gave us water.
• We passed lots of farms with no water.

And so, around 2 PM, we were out of water, in the middle of nowhere. This was time two that we almost died. Thanks to an ingenious shortcut found by Dan, on the wrong side of a river. That meant 1. crossing the river, and 2. taking water from the river to drink and using iodine to make it safe. Tasty...

At about 4:30, 22 km later, we found a place to sleep, further down along the same river. It was a quaint little spot, perfect for Shabbat. We set up shop, did a little prayin and eatin, then were asleep by 8:30.

Day 3: שבת
We took Saturday relatively easy. Though we certainly made some mileage, we also took some time for Shabbat מנוחה. Three hours in, we reached our first water source, a nice gas station, made friends with the patch of grass in the back, and Emma decided it was time for her to return home to Jerusalem.

And then we were five...

That afternoon, we were followed by a dog for a few kilometers into the coolest Arab town I've ever seen. The townspeople, all Beduins, all treated us like celebrities: we were honked at, waved too, offered water and a place to rest, etc. Pretty cool.

Coming out the other side of the village, Crossley made friends with the pavement and was rescued by Dan - could have been much worse.

Outside the town, we passed the trash dump. By dump, I mean the road leaving the town. And by trash, I mean random crap, and lots of smelly animal carcasses, including an entire camel. Yummy.

We made our way into the valley we needed to next pass through, and set up shop for sleeping in a tree-house-like alcove. We made a fire, did Havdalah, told stories, and slept.

Day 4: Sunday
We again arose with the sun, and were off early. Quickly we made our way out of the valley to find ourself at the base of the mountain that, on the other side, is Nazareth, and its Jewish equivalent, Nazareth Elite. A little up the mountain, the trail ended. Then, wild dogs started barking at us and coming in our direction. We took out beef sticks and each held one to ward the dogs off in the event that they attack us. This was time three that we almost died. Fortunately, we were not eaten.

At the top of the hill was two amazing things:

1. The half-way point.
2. A Homecenter.

I'm not quite sure which was more amazing. We used the opportunity to buy some food, replenish our stove gas, and unload the rice which I had been carrying that would not be eaten.

The rest of the day was mostly downhill, coming from Nazareth Elite closer to the coast. Along the way, we passed the grave of Rabbi Yehuda HaNasi, the codifier of the Mishna. Cool stuff.

Before nightfall, we filled our water up at an abandoned gas station and then camped out in a small JNF forest nearby.

While the others were setting up shop, Seth and I walked to the bottom of the hill where we were camping to check out the small Wine and Honey store located there. Mmmm, honey. Mmmm, clean bathrooms. We showered in the outdoor sink there.

But, women always tend to be oh so much smarter than men, and so, accordingly, Anna and Rachel had the bright idea to shower at the gas station where we had filled up our water.... fun times, fun times indeed.

Shortly before going to bed, we found a shortcut in the map that would let us finish the next day. Morale increased quickly.

Day 5: Monday, My Birthday
The last day was all down hill. The first descent presented a slight problem though: more dogs. Again, we almost died, until Dan tamed the dogs and saved the day.

We crossed another river a few times along the way, and then reached civilization: Kiriat Ata, followed by Kiriat Bialik, both subburbs of Haifa. We treked long and hard on the pavement, with feet in pain and heads insane. Dan's feet were two large blisters - it was pretty gross. We felt bad. But he, and the rest of us, were all troopers.

At about 3:30 PM, on October 4, 2004, 80 km after beginning our hike, we arrived at the Mediterranean Sea. We were all a little loopy and ecstatic. The girls did cartwheels. Dan drank a beer. Me, a Diet Coke.

Life was grand, Eddie was happy.

That night we had dinner in Haifa and then took a bus back to Jerusalem, showered and slept. What an amazing adventure!

Boker Tov Philadelphia

1/3 of the way to Israel and enjoying my pre-Holy Land travels.

I flew into NYC saturday night and since have been seeing friends and enjoying my last days in the states. Since yesterday I've been in Huntingdon Valley visiting Cheryl. Today we went into Philadelphia and had a party of a time. We saw the liberty bell, bought books, ate great salmon, and used three different bathroom facilities in less than 3 hours. A job well done if I should say so myself! But wait - there's more! I also bought a pair of boxers for only.... drumroll please... three dollars and ninety nine cents, no tax. Plus, the cashier thought I was Israeli - hakol metsuyan!

Highlight of the last few days: In Penn station Sunday morning, I tried to point up to the board displaying all of the train times and tracks, when I accidently clobbered an old woman in the chin with my fist. As I begged forgiveness and offered my sincere apoligies I was slapped by the lady and cursed to in Italian. Gotta love New York.

I am reminded, that I also today enjoyed a savory, yet delicious, mustard-topped Philadephia pretzel - like no other!

Not yet on the far side,
David

Don't Know When I'll Be Back Again

I've got such a musical theme going here for my titles...

Two days and counting, my bags are all packed, all I need to do now before I go is say goodbye to a few people who will be missed oh so much and get a haircut; the later being the most important.

I'm going to miss so many great people so much though. Yesterday I provided all my contact info in three absurd emails. I sure hope everyone makes good use of those numbers!

Cause I'm Leaving, On a Jet Plane

Three days until I leave and counting. Problem is, I'm already packed. Now what the hell am I supposed to do? I feel like I might as well just hop on a plane now! Fortunately, I remembered to leave out some clothing for the next few days...

Saturday I leave San Diego for a short stint in NYC and Philly; can't wait....